What 12-month curl retention actually means
Suppliers put “12 mois” on a spec sheet and buyers read it as “my client’s set will look good for a year.” Those are two different claims, and only one of them is true.
What the number measures
Curl retention is measured in storage, on the tray, before application. A tray is held at room temperature, away from direct light, and checked at intervals to see whether the curl profile has relaxed. Twelve months means the fan still opens the way it did on day one after a year in a warehouse.
It says nothing about a set on a client. On the lash, curl changes because of humidity, oil, mechanical stress and the natural lash growing out. A fibre that holds its shape perfectly in a tray can still look flat on a client in week three if the room is wrong or the fan is too heavy.
So when a supplier writes “12 mois,” the honest reading is: the raw material and the heat-setting are good enough that the tray will not degrade in your stock room. That is a real and useful claim. It is not a retention promise for the client.
Why PBT holds a curl
Most lash fibre is PBT, a polyester. PBT has a memory: deform it and it returns toward its original shape unless you heat it past a threshold and hold it there. That is exactly what heat setting does. The fibre is wound to the profile you want, heated, and cooled under tension, so the curl becomes the fibre’s default state instead of a temporary bend.
Cheaper fibre is often mechanically curled and not properly heat-set. It looks right out of the bag and relaxes within weeks, and the failure happens in the tray, before the client ever sees it. That is why two suppliers can quote the same diameter and length and behave nothing alike.
We use Korean PBT and heat-set the curl, then hold each batch against a master tray. If the profile drifts mid-batch, the batch is re-set rather than shipped.
What breaks a curl in real life
- Steam and heat. A tray left near a steamer, a kettle or a hot car window relaxes faster than anything else.
- Pressure. A tray crushed at the bottom of a kit bag deforms the fan, and the fibre does not fully recover.
- Sunlight. UV degrades the polymer over months, which is why stock should sit in a cupboard, not on a windowsill.
- Age plus weight. A heavy fan (10D at 0.07 mm) on a fine lash bends the fan under its own weight, regardless of the fibre.
None of these are the supplier’s fault, and all of them show up as “the curl dropped” in a salon. Before blaming the tray, check where it was stored.
How to read a supplier claim
Ask what was measured and where. “Curl retention 12 mois” without a condition is marketing. “Held at 20 à 25 degrees, away from light, checked at 6 et 12 mois” is a test you can compare against another supplier’s.
Then ask about the black. A matte black with a blue or green cast photographs poorly and reads wrong under daylight, which is a separate quality issue from curl but often appears in the same batch.
Finally, ask whether the tray you are buying was made in one run or pulled from several. Mixed runs with different heat-set days can behave differently across the tray.
Test it yourself in a week
You do not need a lab. Take three fans from a new tray and put them somewhere realistic:
- One on the tray in your normal storage.
- One in a bathroom, where humidity lives.
- One in a bag, under a little weight.
Look at all three after seven days. Compare the fan opening and the tip angle against a fresh fan. If the bathroom fan has visibly relaxed, your storage is the variable, not the fibre. If all three have relaxed, the tray was not properly heat-set.
This test costs one tray and settles arguments faster than any spec sheet.
Where the claim goes wrong
The common mistake is reading a storage claim as an application claim. A client set lasting four to six weeks has nothing to do with twelve months of tray life. Retention on the client is decided by hygiene, isolation, adhésif, humidity and fan weight.
The second mistake is assuming every line behaves the same. Volume fans at 0.05 mm are more delicate than classic at 0.15 mm, and a tray that survives a year in a cupboard can still deform in a kit bag. Storage discipline matters more as the fibre gets thinner.
If you want a tray that survives the way it was sold, buy from a batch with a date code, store it flat, and keep it out of the bathroom. That is the whole trick.
Questions buyers ask
Is 12 months a guarantee?
It is a tested result under stated storage conditions, not a guarantee for every environment.
Does the curl drop on the client?
Oui, over weeks, because of humidity, oil and mechanical stress. The storage claim does not cover that.
What shortens tray life most?
Steam, heat and pressure. Sunlight degrades the polymer over months.
Do all lines hold the same?
No. Thinner fibre deforms more easily, so storage discipline matters more at 0.05 mm.
How do I check a batch?
Ask for the heat-set date and compare two trays from different dates.
Is matte black harder to hold?
The colour is separate from curl. Ask for a daylight check on the black as well.
Can I store trays in the bathroom?
Not if you want the curl to survive. Humidity is the fastest way to relax a fan.
Does the tray design matter?
Oui. A tray that holds the fan in place protects the curl in transit.
What do you test?
Curl profile against a master tray, at 6 et 12 mois de stockage.
Can I get a sample to test?
Oui, four to five pieces free, tu couvres le courrier.
Test a tray against your own storage
Order samples, run the three-fan test, and compare the result with what you stock now. If the difference is not obvious, keep your current supplier.
- Four to five free pieces
- PBT coréen, heat-set
- Batch date on request
- Quantité minimale de commande 100 par style